How to Hurricane-Proof Your Doors and Windows Before Storm Season
Hurricane season in Florida runs from June 1 through November 30 — but experienced Florida homeowners know that preparation shouldn’t wait until June. The time to assess your doors and windows, address any vulnerabilities, and confirm that your storm protection is in place is before the first named storm of the season is already in the Gulf. Doors and windows are the most vulnerable points in a home’s envelope during a hurricane. When a window or door fails under wind pressure or windborne debris impact, the interior of the home is suddenly exposed to the full force of the storm. Pressure dynamics change instantly — wind and rain enter the structure, roof uplift forces increase dramatically, and the risk of catastrophic structural failure rises significantly. Keeping the building envelope intact is one of the most important principles of hurricane-resistant construction, and it starts with your doors and windows. This guide covers what Florida homeowners need to know about protecting doors and windows before storm season — from assessing what you have to understanding your options and getting everything in order before a storm is on the forecast. Understanding Florida’s Wind-Load Requirements Florida has some of the most stringent building codes for wind resistance in the country — a direct result of the devastation caused by Hurricane Andrew in 1992, which exposed serious deficiencies in the construction standards of the time. The Florida Building Code requires windows and doors in wind-borne debris regions to either be impact-rated or protected by an approved storm protection system. Most of Central Florida falls within a wind-borne debris region, which means this requirement applies to the vast majority of homeowners in the St. Cloud, Orlando, and Kissimmee area. Homes built or permitted after the code updates following Andrew are more likely to already have compliant windows and doors — but homes built before the mid-1990s, and some built after where original windows and doors were never replaced, may still have products that don’t meet current standards. Knowing whether your doors and windows meet current wind-load requirements is the starting point for any storm preparation assessment. Option 1: Impact-Resistant Windows and Doors Impact-resistant windows and doors — commonly called hurricane windows and doors — are the gold standard for storm protection in Florida. They are constructed with laminated glass that consists of two or more panes bonded together with a polyvinyl butyral or similar interlayer. When struck by windborne debris, the glass may crack but the interlayer holds the pieces in place, maintaining the integrity of the opening and preventing wind and rain from entering the structure. Impact windows and doors are tested and rated to withstand specific wind speeds and debris impact loads. Products installed in Florida must meet the requirements of the Florida Building Code and carry a Notice of Acceptance from Miami-Dade County or a Florida Product Approval — the two approval pathways that demonstrate compliance with state wind-load standards. The advantages of impact windows and doors go beyond storm protection. They provide year-round security benefits — impact glass is significantly more difficult to break than standard glass, making it a deterrent to forced entry. They reduce outside noise transmission meaningfully, which is noticeable in any home near a busy road. They block a high percentage of UV radiation, reducing fading of interior furnishings and flooring. And they eliminate the need to install and remove storm shutters every season — a significant labor and storage consideration for many homeowners. The primary disadvantage is cost. Impact windows and doors carry a higher upfront cost than non-impact products plus shutters. However, many Florida insurance companies offer premium discounts for homes with impact-rated openings, which offsets some of the cost over time. The elimination of shutter installation labor and storage is an additional ongoing savings. Option 2: Storm Shutters and Panels For homes with non-impact windows and doors, approved storm shutters or panels provide the required protection during a storm event. There are several types, each with different characteristics in terms of cost, protection level, ease of deployment, and storage requirements. Accordion Shutters Accordion shutters are permanently mounted on tracks beside the window or door opening and fold out to cover the opening when a storm approaches. They are the most convenient storm shutter option because deployment requires no lifting, carrying, or hardware installation — the shutters simply unfold and latch in place. They are also among the most durable options, with a long service life when properly maintained. The trade-off is upfront cost, which is higher than panel systems, and the permanent visual presence of the shutter tracks and housings on the exterior of the home even when the shutters are open. Roll-Down Shutters Roll-down shutters operate similarly to accordion shutters but roll up into a housing above the opening rather than folding to the side. They can be manual or motorized. Motorized roll-down shutters are among the most convenient storm protection options available — deploying the entire home’s shutters can be accomplished in minutes from inside the house. Roll-down shutters provide excellent protection and are visually clean when deployed, but they represent a significant investment, particularly for motorized systems on larger homes. Panel Systems Storm panels — made from aluminum, steel, or polycarbonate — are the most affordable shutter option. They are stored when not in use and installed over window and door openings when a storm approaches, secured with bolts or tracks permanently mounted to the exterior wall. The disadvantage of panel systems is the labor and time required to install them before a storm. Panels must be retrieved from storage, transported to each opening, lifted into place, and secured — a process that can take several hours for a full home and requires physical ability to manage the panels safely. For homeowners with limited mobility or who travel frequently during storm season, panel systems present practical challenges. Polycarbonate clear panels offer the same protection as aluminum panels while allowing light into the home when installed — an advantage during a storm
When to Repair vs. Replace Your Windows in a Florida Climate
Windows take a beating in Florida. The combination of intense UV radiation, high humidity, salt air in coastal areas, and the physical stress of storm season puts Florida windows through conditions that windows in cooler, drier climates simply don’t experience. The result is that Florida homeowners face window repair and replacement decisions more frequently than most — and the stakes are higher, because a window that fails during a hurricane isn’t just an inconvenience. The question of whether to repair or replace a window is one that depends on several factors: the age and condition of the window, the nature of the problem, the window’s energy performance, and whether it meets current Florida Building Code requirements for wind resistance. Getting this decision right saves you money in the short term and protects your home in the long term. Getting it wrong means either spending money on repairs that don’t hold, or replacing windows that could have been fixed for a fraction of the cost. This guide walks through the most common window problems Florida homeowners face, how to evaluate whether repair or replacement is the right answer, and the Florida-specific factors that should inform your decision. How Florida’s Climate Affects Windows Before getting into specific problems and solutions, it helps to understand what Florida’s climate actually does to windows over time. UV radiation in Florida is among the most intense in the continental United States. Over years of exposure, UV degrades window frame materials — particularly vinyl, which can become brittle and discolored, and wood, which loses its protective finish and begins to absorb moisture. UV also breaks down the glazing compounds and sealants that hold glass panes in place and seal the insulating gas layer in double-pane windows. Humidity causes wood window frames to swell, warp, and eventually rot if the paint and sealing are not maintained. It also promotes mold and mildew growth on frame surfaces and in the sill area where moisture accumulates. Metal hardware — hinges, locks, and operators on casement and awning windows — corrodes in Florida’s humid environment faster than in drier climates. Thermal cycling — the daily expansion and contraction of window materials as temperatures rise and fall — stresses the seals and glazing compounds in every window over time. In Florida, where summer temperatures can push window frame surface temperatures well above ambient air temperature, this cycling is significant. Storm season introduces physical stress in the form of wind pressure, windborne debris, and driving rain. Windows that were not designed or installed to meet current Florida Building Code wind-load requirements are a safety and liability concern, particularly in homes built before the 2000s when code requirements were significantly updated following Hurricane Andrew. Common Window Problems and Whether to Repair or Replace Broken or Cracked Glass A single pane of broken or cracked glass in a standard single-pane window is almost always a repair — the glass can be replaced in the frame without replacing the entire window unit. The decision becomes more complicated in double-pane or impact-resistant windows. In a double-pane window, the two panes of glass are sealed together with an insulating gas — typically argon — in between. If one pane cracks, the seal is compromised and the insulating gas escapes. Replacing just the glass unit — called the IGU or insulated glass unit — is possible in many double-pane windows and is significantly less expensive than replacing the entire window. However, if the frame itself is in poor condition, replacing just the glass unit may not be cost-effective. In impact-resistant windows, a cracked pane is a more serious situation because the impact resistance of the window depends on the integrity of both the glass and the laminated interlayer between panes. A cracked impact window should be assessed by a professional to determine whether it still provides adequate protection — in many cases, a cracked impact window needs to be replaced rather than repaired to maintain its certification. Fogging or Condensation Between Panes Fogging between the panes of a double-pane window is one of the most common window complaints in Florida. It occurs when the seal between the two panes fails, allowing humid air to enter the space between the glass. The moisture in that air condenses on the interior glass surfaces, creating a cloudy or foggy appearance that cannot be cleaned because it’s on the inside of the sealed unit. A fogged double-pane window has lost its insulating value — the argon gas has escaped and been replaced by humid air, which conducts heat much more readily. In Florida’s climate, this means your air conditioning is working harder to compensate for the additional heat transfer through the failed window. The repair option for a fogged double-pane window is replacing the IGU — the glass unit itself — while keeping the existing frame. This works well when the frame is in good condition and the window is otherwise performing adequately. Replacement of the entire window makes more sense when the frame is also aged or damaged, when the window doesn’t meet current wind-load requirements, or when upgrading to impact glass is a goal. Drafts and Air Infiltration A window that lets in drafts — detectable as a noticeable airflow near the window when it’s closed, or as a cold or warm spot on the interior surface — is losing conditioned air and allowing outside air in, which directly increases your energy costs. The source of the draft determines whether repair or replacement is the answer. Drafts caused by deteriorated weatherstripping around the window sash are a repair — weatherstripping is inexpensive and straightforward to replace on most window types. Drafts caused by gaps between the window frame and the rough opening in the wall, where the original installation or caulking has failed, are also a repair — the gaps can be resealed with appropriate caulk or expanding foam. Drafts caused by warped or damaged sashes that no longer close squarely against the frame, or by frame distortion that has
Why Your Doors and Windows Stick in Florida (and How to Fix Them)
If you have lived in a Florida home for any length of time, you have probably fought with a door that sticks in the summer, a window that refuses to budge, or a bedroom door that suddenly will not latch. It is one of the most common little frustrations of homeownership here, and it is almost always tied to our climate. The encouraging part is that most sticking doors and windows are an easy fix once you understand what is causing them. Here is why it happens so often in Florida, the simple fixes that solve most cases, and the signs that something bigger might be going on. Why Florida humidity makes doors and windows stick Wood absorbs moisture from the air and releases it as conditions change. In Florida’s humid months, wooden doors and window sashes soak up that moisture and physically swell, growing just enough to rub against their frames and stick. When the air dries out, they often shrink back and move freely again. This is why a door might stick all summer and behave perfectly in the cooler, drier months. It is the single most common reason for sticking in our climate, and it affects even well-built homes. Settling and shifting: the other common cause Florida’s sandy soil, high water table, and seasonal moisture cause homes to settle and shift slightly over time. As a frame moves out of square even a little, a door or window that once fit perfectly can start to bind, rub, or refuse to latch. You will often notice this as a door that drags on one corner, a gap that has grown uneven, or a latch that no longer lines up with its strike plate. Minor settling is normal and usually just needs an adjustment rather than anything dramatic. Simple fixes for a sticking door Many sticking doors can be solved with straightforward adjustments: Simple fixes for a sticking window Windows have their own common remedies. For older wooden windows, cleaning built-up paint and grime out of the tracks often restores smooth movement, and a dry lubricant helps. Sashes that have been painted shut can be carefully freed. For the aluminum and vinyl windows common in Florida, the problem is frequently dirty or worn tracks and rollers, which can be cleaned, adjusted, or replaced. A window that is hard to open is more than an annoyance. If it is meant to be an emergency exit, a stuck window is a safety issue worth fixing promptly. Do not forget the sliding glass door Sliding glass doors leading to the lanai or patio are a Florida staple, and they are notorious for getting harder to slide over time. The usual culprits are dirty tracks and worn rollers. Cleaning the track and replacing the rollers can make a heavy, screeching slider glide like new again. Because these doors are heavy and the rollers carry all that weight, this is a repair that is often best handled by someone with the right tools and the correct replacement parts. When sticking points to a bigger problem Most sticking is harmless humidity or minor settling, but occasionally it signals something that deserves a closer look. Be alert if you also see cracks forming above the door or window, gaps that are growing quickly or unevenly, or several doors and windows around the house binding at the same time. These can be signs of more significant movement or a moisture problem in the structure. They do not always mean trouble, but they are worth having looked at rather than ignored. Why you should not just force it When a door or window sticks, the natural reaction is to shove harder, but that often makes things worse. Forcing a swollen door can crack a panel, strip the hinges, or damage the frame, and yanking on a stuck window can break the sash or the hardware. A sticking door or window is telling you that something is rubbing or out of alignment, and the fix is almost always an adjustment rather than brute force. Working with the cause, instead of fighting the symptom, protects the door and the frame and usually solves the problem for good. Weatherstripping and the Florida energy bill There is a comfort and cost angle to sticking doors and windows too. A door that no longer seals properly, or a window that does not close all the way, lets your cooled air leak out and the Florida heat and humidity in, which makes your air conditioner work harder. When we service a sticking door or window, we also check that it seals well when closed, since fresh weatherstripping and a properly aligned door not only operate better but can help keep your energy bills in check during our long cooling season. A quick seasonal check Because humidity is the main culprit here, it helps to give your doors and windows a quick once-over as the seasons change. At the start of the humid months, note which ones begin to stick, and watch whether they free up again when the air dries out. The ones that stick year-round, rather than just seasonally, are the ones most likely to need a real adjustment rather than simply waiting for the weather to change. A small fix now saves a bigger one later A sticking door or window is easy to live with and easy to put off, but the underlying cause, whether it is swelling, a sagging hinge, or worn hardware, tends to get worse rather than better. A quick adjustment today is far cheaper than a damaged frame or a door that will not close in an emergency. If your doors, windows, or sliders are sticking, dragging, or refusing to latch, reach out to Jitterbug Home Services. We will diagnose what is really going on, make the adjustment or repair, and gladly explain what caused it so you know what to watch for in the future.